Driedelige japon

Driedelige japon

The German Willy Schüler (1865-1939) and his Dutch wife Selma Wittgenstein (1865-1946) opened the doors of their fashion house Schüler & Cie in The Hague in 1884. Wittgenstein was born into a family with close fashion connections: her sister was married to Josef Cohen, the founder of Maison de Bonneterie and her cousin Sally Berg was the founder of the stylish fashion house, Hirsch & Cie. The exclusive Schüler & Cie gave 6-monthly presentations of the newest haute couture from Paris fashion houses such as Paul Poiret, Maison Worth and Jeanne Lanvin. As was popular at the time, Schüler & Cie tried to emanate the chic Parisian image, even to the extent of expecting their personnel to speak French. Schüler also made demands as to how personnel should deal with customers, as is evident in a job vacancy printed in the newspaper Algemeen Dagblad in 1912 for a "capable saleswoman able to deal with dignified clientele." This clientele included Queen Wilhelmina. Mrs Boon Hartsinck de Brauw, the donator of this exceptional moire-silk dress, also came from a noble family. In addition to this low-cut bodice, meant for evening wear, the dress has a second, high-necked bodice for day wear.

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The German Willy Schüler (1865-1939) and his Dutch wife Selma Wittgenstein (1865-1946) opened the doors of their fashion house Schüler & Cie in The Hague in 1884. Wittgenstein was born into a family with close fashion connections: her sister was married to Josef Cohen, the founder of Maison de Bonneterie and her cousin Sally Berg was the founder of the stylish fashion house, Hirsch & Cie. The exclusive Schüler & Cie gave 6-monthly presentations of the newest haute couture from Paris fashion houses such as Paul Poiret, Maison Worth and Jeanne Lanvin. As was popular at the time, Schüler & Cie tried to emanate the chic Parisian image, even to the extent of expecting their personnel to speak French. Schüler also made demands as to how personnel should deal with customers, as is evident in a job vacancy printed in the newspaper Algemeen Dagblad in 1912 for a "capable saleswoman able to deal with dignified clientele." This clientele included Queen Wilhelmina. Mrs Boon Hartsinck de Brauw, the donator of this exceptional moire-silk dress, also came from a noble family. In addition to this low-cut bodice, meant for evening wear, the dress has a second, high-necked bodice for day wear.

This object is now not on display in the museum

Title

Driedelige japon

Artist

Dating

ca. 1902

Material and technique

chiffon, taftzijde, torchon kant, metaal, gouddraad, baleinen

Object number

7916/001-003

Object type

dameskleding, japon, jurk, lijf

Acquisition

schenking 1937

Dimensions

taille 80 cm

breedte cm

diepte cm

Inscriptions and markings

  • merk (etiket): LANGE VOORHOUT, 100 // LA HAYE// Schuler & Cie // 3-5 OUDE HAVENKADE ROTTERDAM

Remarks

De japon heeft twee lijfjes: een met lange mouwen en hoge boord voor 's middags en een met decolleté voor 's avonds.

Documentation

  • De costuumverzameling in het Centraal Museum 1750-1930 : gids en catalogus, (Utrecht, 1947), cat. nr. 141, pp. 48, 59, plaat XVI

  • Een eeuw Nederlandsche Mode, C.H. de Jonge, (Amsterdam, 1941), pp. 200-201, afb. nr. 112

  • Mode en kostuums, Hanneke Adriaans, Saskia Kuus, (Utrecht, 1996), p. 281, cat. nr. 89, met afb.

Exhibitions

  • Uit de Mode, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2017

  • Script. Mode en interieur, van salon tot house, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2007 - 2008

  • Het costuum onzer voorouders 1750-1915, Volksuniversiteit Rotterdam, Rotterdam, 1936

Persistent url

To refer to this object please use the following persistent URL:

https://hdl.handle.net/21.12130/collect.6A26695F-7C1F-4D95-AE26-DAFE0512FE3E

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