Robe à la française bestaande uit japon en overjapon

Robe à la française bestaande uit japon en overjapon

This robe à la française is a gown for special, formal occasions. The style is recognisable by the pleating on the back of the gown. These pli Watteau are the only design in fashion history which is named after an artist (Jean Antoine Watteau, 1684-1721). The amount of material needed, plus the cost of the seamstress, made such pleats an expensive undertaking. The cost was, where possible, reduced by the use of a plainer cloth for the back of the underskirt, which was not visible. Once this dress had been added to the collection it received much exposure. It received a prominent place next to the three dresses submitted by Queen Wilhelmina which opened the Costume of our Ancestors exhibition in 1936. The garment has suffered in the passage of time. Old catalogues consistently refer to the dress as being purple or dark red, but the colour has faded. During research we discovered hooks and eyes which enabled the wearer to raise the overskirt, this revealed the original colour underneath.

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This robe à la française is a gown for special, formal occasions. The style is recognisable by the pleating on the back of the gown. These pli Watteau are the only design in fashion history which is named after an artist (Jean Antoine Watteau, 1684-1721). The amount of material needed, plus the cost of the seamstress, made such pleats an expensive undertaking. The cost was, where possible, reduced by the use of a plainer cloth for the back of the underskirt, which was not visible. Once this dress had been added to the collection it received much exposure. It received a prominent place next to the three dresses submitted by Queen Wilhelmina which opened the Costume of our Ancestors exhibition in 1936. The garment has suffered in the passage of time. Old catalogues consistently refer to the dress as being purple or dark red, but the colour has faded. During research we discovered hooks and eyes which enabled the wearer to raise the overskirt, this revealed the original colour underneath.

Now in the museum in Collectie Centraal

Title

Robe à la française bestaande uit japon en overjapon

Artist

Dating

1760 - 1765

Material and technique

ripszijde; gebrocheerd, jacquard geweven

Object number

6868/001-002

Object type

dameskleding, japon, jurk

Acquisition

schenking 2017 (bruikleen sinds 1932)

Dimensions

lengte rok 91 cm

zoomwijdte 265 cm

lengte overjapon 157 cm

zoomwijdte overjapon 250 cm

mouwlengte 25 cm

hoogte cm

breedte cm

diepte cm

Documentation

  • De costuumverzameling in het Centraal Museum 1750-1930 : gids en catalogus, (Utrecht, 1947), cat. nr. 12, pp. 8, 55, plaat II

  • Het Costuum onzer Voorouders : tentoonstelling ten bate van de vereniging T.I.B.O. (tegemoetkoming in bijzondere omstandigheden), (Den Haag, 1936), cat. nr. 95, p. 51

  • Het costuum onzer voorouders, C.H. de Jonge, (Den Haag, 1936), p. 8, afb. nr. 19

Exhibitions

  • Collectie Centraal, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2023

  • Uit de Mode, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2017

  • Ruisende Rokken : 200 jaar kostuums uit de collectie van het Centraal Museum Utrecht, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 1995 - 1996

Persistent url

To refer to this object please use the following persistent URL:

https://hdl.handle.net/21.12130/collect.573355D2-CC2D-4B4E-813E-B3708DCEE7A5

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