Kolder

Kolder

<SPAN lang=EN-GB> <P dir=ltr align=left>This gambeson is one of the few seventeenth-century garments in a Dutch museum collection. Leather or textile was a valuable possession for many, and for that reason often worn until threadbare, or it was reused. It is therefore quite exceptional that this thick leather gambeson has been preserved, and in such a good condition too. </P> <P dir=ltr align=left></P><FONT size=3 face="Courier New"><FONT size=3 face="Courier New"> <P dir=ltr align=left>This type of garment was mainly worn by horsemen, soldiers and sailors from the second half of the sixteenth century on. The thickness of the material protected the wearer against all forms of danger from the world around. The gambeson was sometimes worn in combination with a cuirass (a type of harness). There are dozens of paintings from that time showing people wearing this tunic. </P> <P dir=ltr align=left></P> <P dir=ltr align=left>A gambeson like this was always made of leather, but the model was nevertheless subject to fashion. Its longer front </FONT></FONT><FONT color=#141413 size=3 face="Courier New"><FONT color=#141413 size=3 face="Courier New"><FONT color=#141413 size=3 face="Courier New">panels allow us to date this exemplar to between 1660 and 1670. The long sleeves are remarkable. These are made of thinner leather than the rest, facilitating movement. The sleeves have deep incisions at the back. The lace closure of braided metal thread with silver fourragere pins</FONT></FONT></FONT><FONT size=3 face="Courier New"><FONT size=3 face="Courier New"> running vertically down the front is purely decorative, as the coat has an inside hook-and-eye fastening, with hooks and eyes alternating to prevent the gambeson from falling open due to sudden movements. </P></FONT></FONT></SPAN>

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This gambeson is one of the few seventeenth-century garments in a Dutch museum collection. Leather or textile was a valuable possession for many, and for that reason often worn until threadbare, or it was reused. It is therefore quite exceptional that this thick leather gambeson has been preserved, and in such a good condition too.

This type of garment was mainly worn by horsemen, soldiers and sailors from the second half of the sixteenth century on. The thickness of the material protected the wearer against all forms of danger from the world around. The gambeson was sometimes worn in combination with a cuirass (a type of harness). There are dozens of paintings from that time showing people wearing this tunic.

A gambeson like this was always made of leather, but the model was nevertheless subject to fashion. Its longer front

panels allow us to date this exemplar to between 1660 and 1670. The long sleeves are remarkable. These are made of thinner leather than the rest, facilitating movement. The sleeves have deep incisions at the back. The lace closure of braided metal thread with silver fourragere pins running vertically down the front is purely decorative, as the coat has an inside hook-and-eye fastening, with hooks and eyes alternating to prevent the gambeson from falling open due to sudden movements.

This object is now not on display in the museum

Title

Kolder

Artist

Dating

1660 - 1670

Material and technique

zeemleer, zilver

Object number

4461

Object type

herenkleding, jas, kolder

Acquisition

bruikleen# 1923 (bruikleen van particuliere collectie)

Dimensions

lengte midden achter 92 cm

mouwlengte 50 cm

rugbreedte 43 cm

hoogte cm

breedte cm

diepte cm

Inscriptions and markings

    Documentation

    • Catalogus van het Museum van Oudheden [1904], supplement, cat. nr. 1985 1x

    • Centraal Museum Gids : een gids voor vrienden, Cornel Bierens, (Utrecht, 2001), p. 106; p. 112; p. 107 (afb. in kleur)

    • De costuumverzameling in het Centraal Museum 1750-1930 : gids en catalogus, (Utrecht, 1947), cat. nr. 4, pp. 4, 55, afb. nr. 2

    Exhibitions

    • Uit de Mode, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2017

    • Dit is het Centraal Museum! Topstukken uit de vijf collecties, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2012 - 2015

    • Mannen en Sieraden. Dinie Besems, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2004

    Persistent url

    To refer to this object please use the following persistent URL:

    https://hdl.handle.net/21.12130/collect.4E3B081E-345C-464C-B709-A84CBFAC9B4E

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