"A good hole is not cheap", this was a quote from Cora Kemperman in an article in Viva magazine 1983 about Mac & Maggie's autumn collection. She was referring to the hand made construction of the holes in this linen ensemble. Mac & Maggie was, in the late 1970's, the first ready-to-wear label which brought international catwalk trends almost directly on to the high street. Kemperman was, as buyer, literally inspired by the whole world and worked in close collaboration with leading stylist Frank Ankone. From 1982 they were influenced by, amongst others, the new Japanese avante-garde. This group of designers discovered an innovative form of design and a deconstructive approach to materials by re-interpreting established Western traditions such as beauty and gender. The influence of Rei Kawakubo at Commes des Garcons is clearly obvious in this ensemble: unfinished, frayed and imperfect were all characteristics of this period.