Mattijs van Bergen's autumn collection 2009-2010 is significantly titled Blanco. This ensemble with extravagant sleeves and knee-length skirt is made from calico: unbleached, simple and cheap cotton. This cotton material has been used for making patterns and toiles (samples) for centuries. Van Bergen treats this material as if it were expensive couture fabric and uses ingenious techniques such as open pleating. Pleating has become the designer’s most important trademark. The pattern on the fabric is unique: hours, maybe days, were spent drawing graphic designs on the fabric by hand using BIC pens. The blouse with strikingly high shoulders refers to the balloon-like sleeves which dominated the fashion silhouette of the 1830's. Van Bergen shapes the sleeves by using a framework similar to the whalebone construction used in the historical sleeves. The design also has one more meaningful aspect: if the wearer clasps her hands, the silhouette becomes heart-shaped.