With her Stockman gilet, Margiela plays with the imagery of the sewing workshop and haute couture. The sleeveless vest closely resembles a linen torso, an artisan tailor's 'mannequin'. The high neckline has size 42 on it, and 'SEMI COUTURE' and 'PARIS' are stamped at the bottom of the front panels. The design fits within the conceptual thinking of the enigmatic Martin Margiela, one of the famous 'Antwerp Six' fashion designers of the 1980s. [text 2023]
Maison Martin Margiela’s iconic Stockman waistcoat plays with the essentials of the sewing room, where the dressmaker’s dummy is indispensable. This waistcoat has a striking resemblance to the linen dressmaker’s dummy used by a tailor (and also for this exhibition). The high neck is marked with the size 42. ‘SEMI COUTURE’ and ‘PARIS’ are printed at the bottom of each front panel. There are more references to haute couture and the art of craftsmanship. The design is consistent with the conceptual thought patterns of the mysterious Margiela (1957). More of his designs are showcased in Out of Fashion.