Reformjapon

Reformjapon

Hobble skirt, queue de Paris, crinoline and corset; the fashion silhouette demands much of the female body through the ages. The Vereeniging voor Verbetering van Vrouwenkleeding (in short, the V.v.V.v.V.) was established in 1899. The members' protests against the existing fashions included the wearing of a train outdoors, tight stifling collars, high heels, and especially the tightly corsetted waists and heavy, closely woven fabric. One of the designs which aimed to improve the situation was developed by the Dutch woman Marie Thierbach-Paris, who aspired to simple clothing styles not dictated to by the fashion of the moment. The tunic-like ankle length Thierbach design, of which this pale green dress is a fine example, is based on minimal cutting of the material. The shape of the dress should be tailored by pleating the back and using soft material. The V.v.V.v.V. even established a special vocational school in 1909. One of the committee members and wearer and donator of this silk dress with macramé and beads was Mrs J.L. Redeke-Hoek.

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Hobble skirt, queue de Paris, crinoline and corset; the fashion silhouette demands much of the female body through the ages. The Vereeniging voor Verbetering van Vrouwenkleeding (in short, the V.v.V.v.V.) was established in 1899. The members' protests against the existing fashions included the wearing of a train outdoors, tight stifling collars, high heels, and especially the tightly corsetted waists and heavy, closely woven fabric. One of the designs which aimed to improve the situation was developed by the Dutch woman Marie Thierbach-Paris, who aspired to simple clothing styles not dictated to by the fashion of the moment. The tunic-like ankle length Thierbach design, of which this pale green dress is a fine example, is based on minimal cutting of the material. The shape of the dress should be tailored by pleating the back and using soft material. The V.v.V.v.V. even established a special vocational school in 1909. One of the committee members and wearer and donator of this silk dress with macramé and beads was Mrs J.L. Redeke-Hoek.

This object is now not on display in the museum

Title

Reformjapon

Artist

Dating

1912

Material and technique

ripszijde, kralen, hout; macrame

Object number

10066

Object type

dameskleding, japon, jurk

Acquisition

schenking 1947

Dimensions

hoogte 138 cm

breedte 66 cm

diepte 1 cm

Inscriptions and markings

    Documentation

    • Daubigny, Van Doesburg, Daniëls ... en 88 andere hoogtepunten uit de collectie moderne kunst van het Centraal Museum, Carel Blotkamp, (Utrecht, 1987), p. 68-69, nr. 27, met afb.

    • De Utrechtse Parade 1495-1995 : van Van Scorel tot Rietveld en Koch, red. Renger de Bruin, Jos de Meyere, Suzanne de Sitter. teksten Hanneke Adriaans, Marja Bosma, Renger de Bruin, Roman Koot, Jos de Meyere, Ida van Zijl, (Utrecht, 1994), pp. 269-270, afb. nr. 141

    • De costuumverzameling in het Centraal Museum 1750-1930 : gids en catalogus, (Utrecht, 1947), cat. nr. 143, p. 59

    Exhibitions

    • Uit de Mode, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2017

    • Mode en Kunst. Een affaire, Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, Den Haag, 2011 - 2012

    • Woman by Vivienne Westwood, Christian Dior Couture, Maison Martin Margiela, Junya Watanabe, Ann Demeulemeester, Veronique Leroy, Bernard Willhelm, Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan, Centraal Museum, Utrecht, 2003

    Persistent url

    To refer to this object please use the following persistent URL:

    https://hdl.handle.net/21.12130/collect.B9F3AC9C-8712-4CCB-BF78-297D1E7D86B8

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