This jacket is a perfect example of the Belgian designer Martin Margiela's conceptual opinions. Proportion and the contrast between 2D and 3D were the theme of both his spring and autumn collections in 1998. When not worn the jacket is completely flat. This effect is achieved by the jacket having the same two dimensional structure as a pattern piece. The arms are not set into the sides of the jacket, but cut out of the front. In keeping with the designer’s way of thinking, the presentation was unconventional, as would be expected. Margiela staged the scene of an auction house, in which the fashion house employees, dressed in white laboratory coats, held the clothes up for inspection. The clothes were presented on the thin, wire coat hangers used by dry-cleaners. Because the clothes were not worn by a model the flatness of the garments is accentuated and the role of the wearer is avoided.
Title
Damesjasje
Artist
Martin Margiela (ontwerper) (Leuven 1957)
Dating
1998 - 1999 (maart 1998, voor winter 1998/'99)
Material and technique
Object number
28472
Object type
Acquisition
aankoop 1998
Dimensions
lengte 98 cm
kledingmaat 38 (in het jasje staat de Italiaanse maat 42 (= Nederlandse maat 38))
schouderbreedte 32 cm
breedte cm
diepte cm
Inscriptions and markings
- merk in binnenzijde hals, m.a. (label): Margiela label (wit blanco label) (label aan buitenkant zichtbaar met vier steekjes vastgezet)
Documentation
- Uit de Mode : collectie van het Centraal Museum, Voorw. Bart Rutten, tekst Ninke Bloemberg, Anne-Karlijn van Kesteren, Rosalie Sloof … [et al.] (Utrecht, 2017), p. 112, afb. in kleur p. 113
Exhibitions
Persistent url
To refer to this object please use the following persistent URL: https://hdl.handle.net/21.12130/collect.EA8E7F36-B7A8-4421-8E8D-9A8021E87499
Questions?
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